Friday, February 18, 2011

Getting on the Road in Japan

Let’s face it: mama chari (shopping bikes) are fine for tooling around town, but they’re hardly ideal for exploring the Japan Alps or Hokkaido. If you’re ready to get behind the wheel here in Japan, I’m happy to tell you that it’s not as difficult as you might think. If you’re from a country like the UK, Canada, Germany, France, Australia, or New Zealand, all you have to do is take your license down to the local Japan Automobile Federation (JAF) office, get it translated, then go to the local driving test center and they’ll issue you a Japanese license. However, if you’re not from one of these lucky nations, things are a bit more difficult. Nationals of most other nations, including Americans, have to take a driving test.

If you’re one of those unfortunates who has to take the test, this article is for you. Let’s assume you already have a current driver’s license from your home country (if you don’t, you’re going to have to start from scratch here, and that will probably involve going to driving school, which will set you back several hundred thousand yen).

Here’s the deal: the process in question is called “gaikoku menkyo kirikae,” which translates as “foreign license conversion.” The first step is to go to the local JAF office and have them issue a certified translation of your license. You’ll need to show your gaijin card and pay Y3,000. They’ll issue the translation in about 30 minutes.

Next, you have to go to the local driving test center (“unten menkyo shiken-jo” in Japanese). What I’m going to write here is specific to the Kyoto driving test center, in Nagaoka-kyo, where I got my license. Some of this might not apply to other centers, but I assume the process is fairly similar at other places in Japan.

(Note, this post is intended to supplement my article that appeared in Kansai Scene).

Bring the following to the test center:

NECESSARY DOCUMENTS
• Driver's Licence
• Translation of Driver's License (from JAF)
• Jyuminhyo
• Certificate of Alien Resistration
• Passports (including previous ones)
• One Photo of yourself (write your name and the date taken on the back) 3cm x 2.4cm. The photo must be the recent one (within 6 months).


If you don’t speak decent Japanese, you’ll probably want to bring an interpreter, as they may well ask you to explain things about your driving record, your old license, even the first driving test you took back in the States. Hint: they want exact answers, so do your research before going if you are unsure. Don’t lie about anything you can get caught out on.

Important: you’ll need to prove that you were resident in your country for three months after getting your first license. This can be done with high school and college diplomas, as well as passports if you have entry and exit stamps (often lacking, as, for instance, American immigration doesn’t tend to stamp exits).

Don’t forget your passports (including old ones) and your juminhyo (from your ward office).

Once at the test center, go to the window where they process applications for "gaikoku menkyo kirikae." It will probably take them two hours to process your application. If they accept your application, they’ll issue you some paperwork that allows you to take the test. First, make payment as directed. Then, they’ll send you to take a 10-question English-language written test that is pathetically easy. You’ll be with any other gaijin applying that day. If you can’t pass this, you have no business driving or doing anything else. There are no trick questions: answer with what you think is right.

If you pass the written test, you’ll be able to take the driving test and they’ll give you some information about where to apply. There won’t be time on this day, so you’ll have to come back. But, you should make good use of this day. Ask if there is a koushuu-jo (practice school) nearby and sign up for one hour of driving with an instructor. It costs about Y6000. Again, if you don’t speak decent Japanese, have your interpreter join you in the car so you can understand what the instructor is telling you. These guys really are there to help you, so listen up. They “teach to the test,” and they will help you pass it.

Important: after you finish, walk back into the office and sign up for two hours of driving practice on the actual test course on the next Saturday. This is the secret to passing the test. Show up on that Saturday and master the course. This costs around Y17,000 and it’s money well spent. Take as many notes as you have to.

On the day of the test:

Show up by 8.20am and get your papers in to take the driving test. Dress smartly and comfortably. Take reading materials, as this will be a day of waiting (if you pass the test).

They’ll take your papers then direct you to go outside and wait for the examiner at a particular car stand at 9.10am. Be there promptly. You may be with other gaijin taking the same test that day. They may even join you in the car.

When it’s your turn, do what your instructor told you: approach the car from behind, walk around the right side and in front of the car. Look underneath to check for who knows what – dead cats? Then, board. Here’s the drill:

• Lock the door.

As your doing the following, butter up the examiner. Start with “Yoroshiku onegaishimasu.” Then, announce that you’ve taken three hours of driving practice next door and on this actual course. Then, say that if you make any mistakes, you’d like him to tell you where you went wrong when you’re done, so you can improve your driving. If you don’t know how to say this in sensible, polite Japanese, get someone to tell you. Note that in Japan, if you can’t speak proper Japanese, they’re not going to kick you respect and it will be that much easier for them to fail you. So, keigo is the way to speak here.

• Adjust your seat.
• Adjust your mirror.
• Put on your seatbelt and make sure it lays flat on your body (not kidding).
• Make sure the car is in park, with the hand brake engaged.
• Put your foot on the brake and start the car.
• Check your left mirror then look over your left shoulder (exaggerate these motions in all cases).
• Put the car in drive.
• Release the hand brake.
• Put on your right blinker.
• Check your right mirror.
• Look over your right shoulder.
• Start driving slowly.
• Do your warm-up lap (you’ll know what I mean).

Here's a map of the course:




Drive the course as your instructor taught you. Just a few key points:

The S curve (not the crank, which is easy) is the crux. It’s hard because you have to enter it after hugging the left curb rather tightly, which sets up the angle rather poorly. But, it can be done. In my case, I found that cutting the wheel a little later than I thought necessary did the trick.

Also, two simple rules:

1) When turning left, hug the left curb (within a meter, but not so close that you risk hitting the curb – this is to prevent bikers from squeezing between you and the curb). This is not necessary on leftward curves, only at turns (intersections/junctions).
2) When turning right, hug the center line (ditto about bikers).

Here's the Japanese document they give you at the test center that describes the above turning prodedure:



Finally, when you stop the car, look over your right shoulder before opening the door.

If you’ve taken the practice lessons and followed the above, you may well pass on your first try. It’s not as difficult as people say (most people who fail multiple times were too cheap to take the driving practice or didn’t realize that it was possible). Practice makes the difference.

If you pass, you’ll probably be there until around 2pm. Congrats! Now start thinking about shaken.

Friday, January 28, 2011

"Ice Cream Once a Year" by Robbin LLoyd

Today, I picked up a copy of "Ice Cream Once a Year" (1年に1度のアイスクリーム) by Kyoto-resident Robbin LLoyd (with pictures by Gaku Nakagawa). The book is an incredibly uplifting collection of pictures and poems that make you happy you're alive. The book is written in English and Japanese and it would be a great present for a kid or anyone with kids. You can get it at Junkudo bookstore here in Kyoto on the 8th floor, or online at Amazon Japan here.

Monday, January 17, 2011

Snow in Kurama January 2011

When it snows here in Kyoto, I like to head up to the town of Kurama in the Kitayama Mountains to really enjoy it. There's always much more snow up in Kurama. Yesterday, we woke to a few centimeters of snow here in Kyoto, so I did my work in the morning then I jumped on the Eizan line to Kurama to enjoy the winter scenery.

Here's a shot from inside the Eizan line train. Many of the train cars have these special view cars with seats aligned to let you enjoy the scenery, as this family was doing:


Here's the main gate of Kurama-dera Temple:


After hiking uphill through the snow for about 25 minutes, I got to the main hall:


I crossed the summit of Mt Kurama and headed down through about 25 centimeters of snow toward Kibune. On the way, I passed Okuno-in Maoden hall:


Here's a nice ryokan (Fujiya) in the village of Kibune. I chatted with the old lady out front who complained that the snow had caused a blackout:


Here are the steps up to Kibune-jinja Shrine:

Coming of Age Day in Kyoto

January 10th is Coming of Age Day (Seijin no Hi) in Japan. Every city and town holds a ceremony for all their 20-year-olds to signal their entry into society. All the girls wear kimono and a surprising number of boys do too. If you want to see a lot of bright kimonos, this is your day. The ceremony is held around noon at the Kyoto Kaikan in Okazaki.

Here are some of the colorful young ladies of Kyoto in their best kimonos (and, of course, it wouldn't be Japan without cell phones):


One thing I just can't understand is why the Japanese allow themselves to be victimized by appalling levels of noise pollution. Every year on Coming of Age Day, the various political parties pull up their buses outside the Kyoto Kaikan and proceed to beleaguer the kids, all of whom, I'm sure, would much rather be able to talk to their friends and families. The noise level is truly amazing - you can't hear yourself think (let alone talk on a cell phone):

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Ringing in the New Year at Shinyodo Temple

On New Year's Eve, Kieran and Hiroe went to bed early, so I walked up alone to Shinyodo Temple for the annual bell ringing. I have never seen the place look so magical: under 15cm of snow, with fires burning and lanterns lit, it was like something out of Narnia. The monks were serving warm herbal tea, supposed to help us get through the winter without catching colds. Eventually, two friends turned up. We went over to the temple bell. The monks chanted while standing under the bell. Then, they took turns ringing the bell. Finally, the allowed us to ring the bell. This is one of those traditions that make you glad you live in Kyoto.

Here are the steps leading up to the temple. You can see the orange-robed monks heading up to the bell.


Here's a lantern in the temple grounds:


Here are the monks ringing the bell:

Friday, December 31, 2010

I'm Dreaming of a White New Year

It started snowing this morning (it's New Year's Eve here in Kyoto) and never stopped. We got about 15 centimeters. This is the second most snow I've seen on the ground since coming to Kyoto in 1992. I'm looking forward to going up to the temple to ring the bell in the snow later.

Here is a shot of the pagoda at Kurodani:


Here's a snow-covered Buddha above Kurodani:


Here's Hiroe in the snow at a subtemple of Kurodani:


Here is a shot of me and Kieran in front of Shinyodo, our local temple where I will go ring the bell tonight. Kieran was underwhelmed by the snow.

Saturday, December 25, 2010

Christmas Party 2010

Yesterday, we hosted a Christmas party at my house. We were lucky to have 19 good friends join us. My wife Hiroe cooked a feast and people brought all kinds of goodies. I think we're going to have to make this an annual tradition.

My friend Tatsumi snapped this pic. He is a freelance jewellery designer who lives and works in our neighborhood. You can check out some of his work at his site: Only Order.


He also snapped this one of the party. You can see my wife Hiroe in front serving food. She did an incredible job cooking and hosting the party:


My friend Keiji snapped this picture of my son Kieran:


Here's a picture of Kieran going after the corn chips, with my friend Paul behind him and my friends the Tatsumis behind him: